Continuing south, we decided to spend some time in Split and ultimately on the islands. My favorite was Hvar, with its charming harbor and welcoming locals. Traveling on a budget, we checked into the Green Lizard, where we found a welcoming staff and friendly fellow travelers. Over the course of the next few days, we explored the island together. 

The one man I have in mind I didn’t meet until later. A few of us spent the day climbing up to the 16th century fort at the top of the hill overlooking the island. Fort Fortica provides not only incredible views of the harbor and town below, but also of the surrounding islands. The views make the steady climb worthwhile, and a bar in the fort allows you to sip on a cold local beer while you absorb your surroundings.

The hike made us hungry, and on the walk back down, we began to smell something amazing. The aromas were coming from a restaurant that had caught my eye on the hike up. It looked as if the owners had transformed part of their home into a welcoming space for guests. Carved into stone, the dining room was cool and fluffy pillows ensured our comfort. Soon enough, a smiling host wearing a floppy hat appeared at the door and tempted us inside. We were hooked: this was where we wanted to have our evening meal.

Instead of looking at a menu, we told our host that we wanted to sample local flavors. First he brought out a cup of soup for each of us, bursting with fresh flavors and satisfying our empty stomachs. Next he brought each of us a small plate and began to fill the table with local options. First the local Dalmatian meats and cheeses, followed by an incredible range of vegetable dishes, fresh fish, and things that we didn’t even know what they were. We washed it all down with a small glass of his homemade liquor. 

I’ve written lately about the pleasures of stumbling on places that turn out to exceed our expectations. If you’re climbing the stairs in Hvar town to the fort, keep your eye out for a restaurant on the right hand side, and the smiling host with the floppy hat who will with pleasure expose you to local flavors and explain why these are central to Croatian culture.

Two years ago I decided to make this travel dream come true by spending the months of February and March in Italy. Over a cold Christmas and New Years in New York I envisioned sunny days, strolling through cobblestone streets with a cone of gelato, and sipping an apertif at an outdoor cafe watching the sun set.

Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy, by sunset.

The reality was much less romantic. After being very lucky for much of February (misty Venice was atmospheric, Cinque Terre was warm during the day with chilly evening breezes) the cold weather blues really set in.

We were spending two weeks in a mountain village just south of Salerno (with no heating) and a storm came through that lasted for 3 days and shook every windowpane in the house violently. I tried to keep the romance of ‘mountain village in Italy’ going by sipping hot cups of cappuccino and reading novel after novel while dinner simmered on the stove. But after day 3 – I broke.

I was tired of winter. I was tired of grey clouds. I was tired of being unable to feel my fingertips.

port in sorrento, march 2007

Luckily – after the storm passed, the sun shone brightly right on our mountainside balcony. We went for walks by the sea, and just basked in sunlight. The tiles of the balcony became warm from the sunshine – and I started to believe that winter might actually be coming to a close. That day, taking in the first rays of spring, we decided to head south and spend more time exploring Croatia – it had been a long winter and we were going to chase the sun.

This is how I felt again this week in Dublin. I had a bad case of the cold weather blues.

Yesterday I had just a 10-minute walk in the city and with snow blowing horizontally straight into my face and I realized winter will not go lightly this year. It will continue to taint our weekends, freeze our fingertips, and make Monday mornings just a little more miserable. When I finally got indoors – I didn’t take comfort in ANOTHER cup of tea – but in planning a springtime trip to follow the sun.

a sunny day in dubrovnik, croatia

My thoughts returned to Italy – only further south. I just finished a book on Sicily (Lampedusa’s ‘The Leopard’) and it has left me with a desire to explore this island on the fringe of Italy. I might just combine it with a trip to Malta as well. 

I might just go look up flights right now, as the rain falls drearily in the window beside me.

Where are you going for a warm weather getaway? Post below and give your fellow travelers some inspiration on where to follow the sun this spring and summer.

Maybe this posting of photographs from across Europe will inspire you to book the trip of a lifetime.

Westminster Abbey, London, on a blue-sky autumn day.

Looking for somewhere a bit more exotic?

Church in central square, Hvar, Croatia, during sunset.

Have you been thinking about taking an adventurous vacation? Hike the five villages of Cinque Terre in Liguria, Italy.

View approaching Vernazza, during a hike from Monterosso.

Or maybe a cultural city break will entice you to book the flight?

View down on the river in Budapest

Or maybe rent an apartment and spend a week cooking with local, fresh ingredients?

Market in Vienna, Austria

Check back for more photo travel inspirations, and make 2010 the year you visit somewhere you’ve always dreamed of going.