November 2, 2011

Writer in the Kitchen: Locanda Vini e Olii

‘Eat More Tripe’ chef Michele Baldacci said enthusiastically as I was getting ready to leave his Tuscan-inspired restaurant. ‘How’s that for a title?’

We had just finished an interview and tour of Locanda Vini e Olii, his Italian restaurant (along with co-owners Rocco Spagnardi and Michael Schall) in the Clinton Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn. From the moment I first walked through the historic doors, I was compelled to know more about the story and people behind this space. There are countless restaurants serving Italian food in New York, but few sear your memory so deeply that you have to return for more.

Clues of the restaurant’s former life as a century-old pharmacy give the space some of its undeniable charm. Shelves that were once lined with medicines are now stocked with wine glasses and country-inspired dishes. Arriving on a sunny Saturday afternoon, I took a seat at the bar with Michele for a chat about food, travel, and tips on how to improve cooking at home. 

Chef Michele Baldacci photo by Catherine de Zagon

Michele grew up in the kind of family that made every meal fresh. Talking about his childhood in Florence he said, ‘We planned our meals in advance, nothing was ever frozen, we connected over food’. It should come as no surprise that after some impressive experience — cooking at La Tenda Rossa, a two-star Michelin restaurant and Buca Lapi, one of Florence’s most beloved restaurants — Michele would become part of a team in New York seeking to connect with customers and help expand their culinary horizons. 

It is clear that everyone here loves food. Co-owner Michael Schall works the floor with ease and familiarity, helping customers to break down Italian-heavy language and references on the menu. On my first visit he described dishes with affection, helping me narrow my choices and create a well-balanced meal. This attention to detail encouraged me to make a mental note to return for one of the restaurant’s wine dinners, pairing seasonal ingredients — like mushrooms at a recent autumn wine dinner — with interesting Italian wines.

Country-inspired dishes at Locanda Vini e Olii

With a modest smile, Michele hesitated when I asked him to narrow down his cooking skills to one specialty. ‘Braising meats’ he finally answered. ‘We have a different braised meat almost every day. For the last three days I’ve had three different braised dishes. One of my favorites right now is the braised short ribs, with red wine, bay leaves, and red onion.’

What is striking to me about this restaurant — beyond a mastery of preparing meats — is an energy for pushing the boundaries. ‘I don’t want to serve the obvious dishes’ Michele said. This was apparent later when I stepped into the kitchen to see a pot of ribollita (a simple Tuscan soup of bread and vegetables) gently bubbling away on the stove.

There are challenges, however, in creating a menu that strays from what people expect. Michele said an ingredient like tripe — the lining of the stomach– served here topped with grana padano cheese is one of his most under-appreciated dishes. Yet with the help of warm service and a knowledgeable and curious customer base, these dishes are becoming easier to serve. People want to expand their horizons, and Michele wants to serve dishes that are rooted in his tradition, not watered down or trendy.

Not only do this chef and I share a passion for Italian food, but we both love to let our stomachs spark travel. Recent culinary adventures for Michele include traveling to Alba in the Piedmont region of Italy for its annual truffle festival and tasting the famous sachertorte in its native Austria.

Before heading into the kitchen to witness fresh pasta being made, we talked about tips for cooking at home. The chef warned against spoiling a dish with too many ingredients, and cautioned me against being overly dependent on broth when braising meats. ‘Then everything winds up tasting like broth’, he said. Instead allow the flavor to come from the meat and from the ingredients you choose, and if liquid is needed — use water instead of broth. 

Michele isn’t finished pushing the boundaries at Locanda Vini e Olii. Next he’s planning on using more game, beyond wild boar, on his menu. He wants to use more birds like squab and partridge. During our conversation, it was clear that this chef is constantly challenging himself to share Tuscan traditions with his customers in new ways. 

From the Tuscan bread made in-house to the fresh pasta, everything here is made just how it is in Italy: with love. Leaving the chef to prepare for Saturday night service, I wished I had a reservation for that very night. Next time I sit down at one of the brown-paper covered tables, I think I’ll take Michele’s advice and eat more tripe.

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October 18, 2011

In the Shade of Olive Trees

I’m currently in Greece and couldn’t resist sharing a photo with my readers.

Expect more posts to come (today we harvested olives, pressed them, and tasted the fresh olive oil) but for now, here is a photograph of a picnic in the shade of olive trees.

Afternoon picnic in Costa Navarino

Those picnic baskets are filled with delicious Greek goodies.

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October 11, 2011

A Historic Pink Palazzo

People either love or hate Venice.

The mere mention of the word arouses memories of romance or proclamations of how crowded Piazza San Marco can be. I’ve been there when it’s crowded, so I can sympathize, but I’ve also been there at night, completely on my own, taking in the silent scene without another soul.

Small canal in Venice during winter

I admit to never having set foot in Venice during the summer season, but I can verify its allure during the rest of the year. In autumn the crowds are fewer and sunny afternoons can be spent in a t-shirt. My favorite time to visit Venice is in the dead of winter, when canals have a mysterious low-lying mist, when restaurants don’t clear out after a meal and people linger to savor another drink before bracing the chilly air outside.

I recently covered Venice for Jetsetter — an online community that offers members insider access to expert information and flash sales. Here’s a preview from my hotel review for Ca’Sagredo, located right on the Grand Canal:

Envision a nighttime arrival: the glow of lampshades reflecting in the inky Grand Canal, the boat gliding toward a historic pink palazzo. Inside there are a grand staircase flanked by frescoes, and sophisticated suites with dramatic silk curtains. This is Ca’Sagredo, a 14th-century noble residence turned five-star hotel. It’s elegant without being stuffy, ancient but full of luxurious upgrades — in short, Venice for the modern traveler.

Grand Canal

Jetsetter offers incredible value for hotel stays across the globe, and every hotel they choose is verified. To see my entire review, click here.

Is your appetite whet for Venice? Read about the many ways to find a Bird’s Eye View of Venice (I wrote this for Europe Up Close) or check out some of my favorite Venice posts from the archives:

  • Waking Up in Venice – Day 2: This post covers a fall visit to Venice including traghetto rides, the perfect pizza, and bell tower views. 
  • The Evening Meal: Venice Part III: This post covers a special evening at a restaurant called La Zucca (far away from the bustle of Piazza San Marco)
  • Buongiorno Principessa: This post covers arrival to Venice during an autumn visit along with details on meals and transportation.
  • Best of Venice: This post covers 3 popular attractions in Venice plus 3 off the beaten track attractions, from some of the best gelato in the city to the church featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Signature gondolas in Venice

Readers, care to weigh in on the love/hate Venice idea? What are your best and worst experiences in the city?

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October 4, 2011

Travel Sins

I blame Yeats.

I was reading a collection of his poems at a sidewalk café table on a strangely warm afternoon in Dublin’s city centre, when his musings on young love distracted me from my surroundings.

The waitress dropped the check pulling me out of my reverie, and as I reached under the table with Yeats’ rhymes ringing in my mind, I felt nothing. I reached again, this time taking my eyes off the page, straining to see under my chair. No handbag. I turned to check the back of the chair. I checked the empty seat across from me. Placing my bookmark inside the sun-weathered pages I began to blame Yeats for this Monday afternoon robbery.

Grand Canal in Dublin

This was just one day of the hundreds I lived in Dublin, and while busy sipping my second cup of Barry’s Irish tea, I was committing several travel sins. First, I selected a chair a table at the café with my back to the street. Instead of the steady foot traffic on South William Street being right in front of me, I put it behind me, placing myself in a vulnerable position. I was eating alone, engrossed in a book, and I had placed my handbag out of my line of sight underneath the chair, ignoring that handy piece of travel advice I’ve read dozens of times ‘if you must place your handbag underneath your chair, slip the strap around your ankle to prevent the attraction of petty thieves’.

After being robbed, the mind frantically searches for any other possibility. I jumped from my chair, securing the attention of the waitress, ‘my bag, it’s gone’.

Stepping inside the door of the small café she muttered, ‘I think I know what happened’. I almost expected her to return with the bag in hand, citing that someone had turned it in, thought it was left unattended. My thoughts turned to items that were in the bag: wallet, cash, house keys, a notebook full of scribbles on my time spent in Ireland.

The waitress returned with the manager, describing the scene. ‘The girl was sitting here, behind this young lady. She seemed nervous and wouldn’t order even though she had been looking at the menu for ten minutes’.

South William Street in Dublin

It was then I realized that I knew who had expertly lifted my bag. A woman with bleached blonde hair and two arms full of tattoos had sat down near me about 20 minutes prior. I noticed her at first, fidgeting in the chair in and trying to get comfortable. I didn’t notice when she left, carrying my handbag. The waitress quickly pointed out that from the moment she was gone, there was nothing out of the ordinary in the scene, ‘just a woman walking down the street carrying a handbag.’

I couldn’t pay for my lunch. While I waited for the police – called Garda in Dublin – to arrive and take notes on the incident, the thief got further and further away. I was told the bag might turn up, that local drug addicts were known for snatching bags, taking the cash, and discarding them at the side of the road.

That afternoon I wandered around Dublin, crossed the bridges, strolled up O’Connell Street, my eyes scanning for that mop of bleached blonde hair. That night I dreamt about floating over the River Liffey, no sign of my black notebook beneath still water. The days after the robbery I walked into the police station, enquiring about the robbery, and later when my first questions yielded no results, whether any bags at all had been turned in.

Weeks later, when the locks were changed, credit cards cancelled, and I was resigned that the notebook, just pages from being full, was long gone, I received a package in the mail. It was wrapped roughly in brown paper, the address scrawled in thick black marker. Tearing it open – my thoughts far from the stolen bag – there it was: my brown leather purse, returned to me.

My wallet was inside with every credit card, ID, and old receipt. My Irish mobile phone, my keys, and there in the center compartment zipped away, the notebook. I opened the inside cover, reminding myself that in the first page prompt: ‘If lost please return to…’ I had filled in my Irish address.

Instead of someone bringing it to the police station, they took the time and money to mail it to me. The package arriving on my doorstep reminded me of the soul of the Irish, the generosity of time and feeling of community I felt so deeply in this city. Even the blonde thief, just took the cash and discarded the bag somewhere it would be found. It wasn’t damp, dirty, or ruined.

Some places whisper to you after you have gone. From the streets of New York, it is still audible. As Yeats wrote, ‘I hear it in the deep heart’s core’.

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September 13, 2011

Restaurant Report: Tastes of the Mediterranean

New York City can meet any food craving at any time.

For me, growing up in a household with an Italian background, that craving is often Italian. I want to walk into a restaurant and be smacked in the face with slow-cooked aromas that remind me of home. I want to read a menu that is playful and inventive with these ingredients, one that features fresh pastas, salads big enough to share, and maybe even an Italian waiter or two for good measure. 

I’ve been writing a lot of restaurant reviews over the last several months, reviews that have brought me into the depths of Brooklyn where I’ve experienced the good, the very good, and even the ugly in today’s Italian restaurants (I’ll leave the ugly for another post). Beyond incredible taste and a lovely atmosphere, the following 3 restaurants also have another thing in common: just like the Italians, they cook seasonally. These restaurants are careful and thoughtful about where they source their ingredients, meaning you can feel good about what you’re putting in your body.

Here are three Italian restaurants in Brooklyn that impressed me from start to finish, from the first note of Italian hospitality to the final morsel of hand-crafted desserts.

Locanda Vini e Olii

This Clinton Hill restaurant is set in a historic building that was once a local Drug Store, serving the neighborhood for over 100 years. Locanda Vini e Olii has maintained this historic charm, restoring everything from the original floors to the wooden cabinets lining the walls. Where prescriptions and potions once lined the shelves, today there are wine bottles, sparkling large glasses, and the original wooden latter for reaching items on too-high-to-reach shelves. Part of what is so wonderful about this pharmacy-turned-restaurant is the fact that the atmosphere isn’t curated — what was here for over a century has been restored for a different purpose. 

On a first visit, I took a seat in the window, perfectly positioned to watch the evening unfold around me. There was a group in the corner who I imagined to be regulars, chatting with the staff and every now and then, erupting in a burst of laughter and lightning fast Italian. There was a sommelier, sharing his knowledge about the Italian wine list, pairing glasses of wine with different dishes. And perhaps  most memorably, there were the aromas wafting out of the kitchen, arousing my appetite.

I couldn’t resist the dried Sicilian figs and gorgonzola salad, with baby lettuce, romaine, celery, walnuts, cider vinegar, and mustard. There was a beautiful simplicity in the pasta dish I devoured, a black pepper pici with roasted onions, grana padano, and tarragon. Next came another simple dish, grilled duck breast, served practically unadorned, sized to share, offering perfect morsel after expertly grilled morsel. With wine to match each course, this restaurant satisfied all my cravings for the tastes, sounds, and smells of Italy.

Details: Locanda Vini e Olii, 129 Gates Avenue, Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. C train to Clinton/Washington stop.

Broken English

First of all, I liked the name. Then Broken English in Cobble Hill made a great first impression with a friendly smile, welcoming me to the bustling dining room on a busy Friday night. Beneath the surface of mismatched vintage chairs and exposed brick, there is a distinct Italian undercurrent to the atmosphere of this Brooklyn restaurant. No one was rushing through their meals — taking the time to enjoy a drink while ordering, finishing up a funny story before ordering dessert — it was almost like how Italian family meals would be: long, lingering, and full of good company.

Then there’s the menu. Reading different menu items, I was genuinely excited: roasted butternut squash agnolotti, served with chunks of asparagus spears, and finished with shavings of almond cookie? Yes, please. With a glass of Italian wine in hand, we settled into a procession of delicious dishes. First there were the bite size meatballs, made of all natural beef, pork, veal, and ricotta, served in a light tomato sauce. These little mouthfuls were perfect alongside the arugula salad, a fresh combination of the peppery leaves along with juicy red grapes, blue cheese, and toasted pecans. Like all good Italian restaurants, it pays to arrive with a group, where you can order a variety and sample everything. A bit of agnolotti, a bite of whole wheat pappardelle with wild mushrooms — it was all simply delicious.

Entrees were just as impressive. The stand-out dish of the night was a grilled butterflied Cornish hen, marinated in rosemary, sage, red pepper flakes, and parsley. Served over roasted fingerling potatoes, the flavor of the grilled meat was allowed to shine. From enticing specials to the pile of oysters on ice you pass on the way through the door, Broken English has the type of menu that will lure you to return, when you will be struck with a dilemma: enjoy old favorites or sample new options.

Details: Broken English, 68 Bergen Street, between Smith and Court, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn. F train to Bergen Street.

Convivium Osteria

Convivium Osteria in Park Slope isn’t strictly an Italian restaurant — they serve dishes with a Mediterranean influence featuring the flavors of Italy, Spain, and Portugal. But the cooking philosophy is the same: to cook seasonally, to use the best ingredients, and to create an atmosphere that makes people want to linger with family and friends. Everything is right about the atmosphere here: walls full of hanging copper pots, rustic wooden tables, flickering tapered candles in antique holders. In a city as chaotic as New York, it is places like Convivium Osteria that make it possible to take a step back from the pace of urban life and savor a meal.

One dish that embodies the Italian spirit of simple combinations is the buffalo mozzarella, heirloom tomato, and basil salad. The impossibly creamy buffalo mozzarella was served alongside juicy heirloom tomatoes with several basil leaves, seemingly torn right from the plant, plopped on top for color and a fresh aroma. The organic baby arugula salad was lightly dressed and finished with long shavings of parmigiano: simply perfect. For an appetizer outside the box, I couldn’t get enough of the pan roasted free range quail with fresh figs and port wine reduction.

Entrees were delicious and aromatic as well. On the lighter side, the roasted red snapper over tomatoes, olives, and swiss chard was satisfying and substantial in its own way. The green apple and cinnamon ravioli with duck ragu satisfied a craving for something unusual and packed with flavor. The star of the evening was a pinenut crusted rack of lamb, served simply with roasted cauliflower and a port wine glaze. Desserts here are handmade too – if you can save any room for them. 

Details: Convivium Osteria, 68 5th Avenue, between Bergen and St Marks, Park Slope, Brooklyn. Take the 2 or 3 train to Bergen Street.

Italian traditions are alive and well in New York — some would say — even too much so. If we can eat this good a few subway stops from home, we’re going to need to come up with another reason to cross the pond.

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August 31, 2011

Where to Stay in Dublin

I became a traveler again, faced with all a traveler’s problems.

I was in the center of Dublin — the city I called home from 2008 – 2010 — and instead of a resident, I was a visitor with a visitor’s worries: where to stay, where to eat, what to do, how to manage my time wisely. I love a well-written travel narrative, one that transports you somewhere new, introduces you to new characters and ideas. Yet sometimes, you need the basics covered first.

One source for this type of no-nonsense, exactly what you need when you land type of information is the Five-Point Weekend Escape Plan from New York Magazine. During my recent trip to Dublin I researched new places and revisited old favorites, pounding the pavement for my contribution to this column, ‘See the Contemporary Side of Dublin‘.

One sunny morning I opened the gate to Number 31, a boutique guesthouse in city center Dublin that I was visiting for the first time. Tucked into a laneway off bustling Leeson Street, Number 31 Leeson Close is immediately inviting with its sunken living room and peat-burning fireplace. I followed charismatic owner Noel through the living room, up the stairs, and took a seat in the conservatory for breakfast.

Whenever you live somewhere long enough, there are certain tastes that start to feel like home. In Dublin, that taste is fresh-baked brown soda bread. Noel revealed part of his philosophy about the famously warm Irish hospitality, ‘feed them a good breakfast to set them up for the day’. After placing my order for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs (to accompany that fresh brown bread) I happily nibbled on fresh berries, vanilla poached pears, and cranberry-nut loaf. 

The conservatory at Number 31 has a long communal table, surrounded by flowering plants and plenty of windows letting in natural light. Here all hot breakfasts are made to order, and it is possible to try something different each morning of your stay. There is an option for every appetite, from the full Irish breakfast to a little bowl of porridge. Each morning of my stay, everything from eggs benedict to scrambled eggs and smoked salmon was simply perfect.

After my first breakfast, I sat down with Noel to learn more about the history of Number 31. I learned that the building is an architectural landmark in Dublin, designed by Samuel Stephenson, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright. I learned that the home became a symbol of glamour in 1960s Dublin when American actors and politicians gathered around the peat-burning fireplace. Each of the 21 rooms are individually decorated, located either in the main house or through a manicured garden in the Georgian house.

There are many hotels that like to attach the word ’boutique’ to their description because they like the way it sounds — yet they fail to deliver on the very qualities that make a hotel boutique. Individual attention. Exceptional service. Unique design. I wondered, sitting at the table one morning for breakfast, how many hotels I’ve been in where the owner began to feel like an old friend by the end of the stay? How many hotels where the owner was a presence every day at breakfast, dishing out advice on local restaurants or a road trip to the west of Ireland? 

How many hotels, when you walk in, tell you to drop your bags at the door, and sit down by the fireplace for a cup of tea and a biscuit? 

I may no longer have my own apartment, mailbox, or set of keys in Dublin, but I now know of a little place I can call home when I’m in town.

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August 18, 2011

Writer in the Kitchen

Chef Paul McCabe looked down at my feet, making sure I was wearing correct shoes for the kitchen.

‘Those will do’ he said, motioning for me to follow him through the open kitchen and back into the prep kitchen of Kitchen 1540, the award-winning restaurant at L’Auberge Del Mar, a boutique getaway just north of San Diego on the California coast. Walking past chefs prepping for lunch and dinner service, we stepped into the walk-in fridge, stuffed with ingredients for his organic and local cuisine. Seeing all the bright colors and farm-fresh ingredients it was easy to see where Chef McCabe gets his inspiration.

Back outside he showed me the pride and joy of his kitchen, a fire-engine red Berkel hand-cranked slicer. We talked about sustainable fishing and the importance of restaurants not to order fish that hasn’t been sourced responsibly. Moments later we were standing in his vertical garden, breathing in the aroma of over 140 plants that provide the finishing touch to many of his dishes. From Thai basil to arugula, these plants were thriving under the Del Mar sunshine.

I was traveling on assignment for Luxury Travel Magazine, and this interview with Chef McCabe came the morning after I dined at Kitchen 1540. My article on L’Auberge Del Mar was just published last week; find the full article here. Here’s a sneak preview:

One dish Chef McCabe is widely praised for is his organic beet salad. Bold flavors and contrasting textures combine to make a salad that is downright craveable – something I’ve never said before about beets. Pistachio brittle brought the surprise of a crunch, Valdeon blue cheese gave a pleasurable salty note, and the roasted organic beets were both vibrant in color and flavor. The organic beet salad seduced me into trying any combination Chef McCabe deemed worthy of his menu.

During any interview, there are always plenty of intriguing details that must be left on the cutting room floor. I didn’t have the space in the article to mention how Chef McCabe conceptualized his organic beet salad, for example. He told a great story about experimenting with caramelizing yogurt in his at-home test kitchen in his garage. It turns out he wasn’t working on a beet salad at all, but after successfully caramelizing yogurt, he pulled some beets out of the garden, and the dish organically came together from there.

vertical garden and Chef McCabe

Sitting down at a table in the corner of the restaurant, Chef McCabe shared details about upcoming changes at Kitchen 1540. I listened to a creative mind spell out ideas about how to move dining forward, how to change the concept of the way people eat. All the secrets have yet to be revealed, but one special feature is the chef’s chalkboard menu, a list of 4 -8 items that will change daily depending on the freshest ingredients.

After chatting about favorite New York restaurants (Chef McCabe mentioned Momofuku and Daniel) I was delighted when he suggested we get in the kitchen. I learned that everything at Kitchen 1540 is made from scratch, from the pickles to the mustards. Gazing at all the fresh produce, the chef told me about one of his favorite dishes on the spring menu, a farmhouse salad with 14 – 17 raw, shaved ingredients. Standing at the salad station, I got to see how his famous beet salad is assembled. One thing the chef emphasized was the concept of mouth feel, how the size and texture of each component feels in your mouth. As we dug into the beet salad, it was clear that every detail of this dish had been thought through.

As we moved over to the stove I confessed my love for the chef’s Meyer lemon ricotta pancakes. I had just tried them that morning, sitting on the waterfall terrace overlooking the Pacific, and couldn’t get enough of their texture and aroma. Next the chef took out three plump scallops and offered to demonstrate how to cook them properly. Scallops being one of my personal favorites, I gladly accepted.

outdoor dining area at Kitchen 1540

He started out by patting the scallops dry and giving them a good seasoning of salt only , ‘never any pepper’. Next he heated a pan with extra virgin olive oil (and a touch of grapeseed oil). Dropping the scallops into the pan, he gave them a good 45 second sear, without poking them around in the pan. It seemed as if he could tell just by smell when it was time to flip the scallops to reveal picture-perfect golden brown edges. For cooking scallops at home, the chef warned me about crowding the pan. Thinking back to my own kitchen, I realized this was a mistake I had made in the past.

Next he hit the pan with butter, garlic, and fresh sprigs of thyme. Basting the scallops with nutty brown butter, he put the polishing touch on the scallops. Removing them from the pan, we ate them piping hot right off the counter top. In between sweet bites of the scallops and trying not to burn my mouth, I managed to mumble my approval with a series of sound effects. It is a pleasure to interview someone who shares such an intense passion for food. I learned in Kitchen 1540 that it is an even bigger pleasure to eat something they have cooked straight out of the pan.

Check out this photo gallery for mouth-watering images of Chef McCabe’s creations.

Details: Kitchen 1540, 1540 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, California 92014. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 

Must try dishes:

  • Diver scallops with popcorn puree, salted caramel marcona almonds.
  • Organic beet salad with caramelized yogurt, Valdeon blue cheese, pistachio brittle, and arugula.
  • Whole roasted Tai snapper with grilled lemon vinaigrette.
Photos: 2 outdoor shots courtesy of L’Auberge Del Mar. Garden shot from the personal collection of Jessica Colley.

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August 4, 2011

One Perfect Day in Dublin

On my recent trip to Dublin I was asked by an American traveler, ‘if you had one day in Dublin, what would you do?’

We were sitting at breakfast munching on fresh-baked brown soda bread while sunlight streamed through the windows. This question can be answered in many ways – I mentioned a couple of my favorite museums, neighborhoods for a stroll, and parks. In the end, I described the activity that I would be doing on that very day, getting out of the city center for a hike to the top of Killiney Hill.

views on the hike in Killiney Hill

Located south of city center, Killiney is famous for its coastal views. Visitors to Dublin without a car can take the DART train to Dalkey and follow this map, but we hopped in the car to take in the views along the drive. Upon arrival, there are many different paths to take, varying in degrees of difficulty. I have a favorite path, one that winds through tall trees and provides incredible views of the Irish Sea.

Continuing up to the top, it is possible to look back at Dublin City Center. On this visit I learned that the two piers in Dun Laoghaire (visible from this vantage point) were built from rock taken out of Killiney Hill. This quarry is now a popular place for rock climbing. What is so striking about Killiney Hill (beyond the views) is an undisturbed quality. The paths are the result of countless footsteps – you won’t find smooth pavement here. There are no handrails or guardrails – it is possible to venture as close to the edge of the cliff as you dare. 

views back towards city center Dublin from top of Killiney Hill

During my visit wildflowers were blooming, locals were out walking their dogs, and a family was enjoying an afternoon picnic. The hike to the top is a leisurely one, with plenty of opportunities to stop and take in the views. There are still a couple Dublin museums I haven’t yet seen, and there are always more restaurants to try, but just about every time I’m in Dublin and the sun is shining, Killiney Hill is the place I want to go.

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July 27, 2011

Neighborhood Spotlight: Notting Hill in London

Is there anything more delicious than a vacation Monday?

Colorful buildings in Notting Hill

Sleeping in when the rest of the world is getting up. Savoring a leisurely breakfast with an extra cup of tea. This was the beginning to my Monday waking up in the Notting Hill neighborhood of London, where I spent a lazy day wandering through the Portobello Market. This stretch of Notting Hill is famed for its rows of colorful houses, along with a couple of special bookstores and of course all the fresh produce on offer at insanely low prices.

Fresh fruit in Portobello Market

For the toss of a pound coin or a two pound coin there were piles of cherries, baskets of ready-to-eat nectarines, and crisp apples. The colorful veggie displays made me wish I was cooking dinner that evening. Then there were the rustic breads, pops of color as bouquets of flowers were arranged on request, all flanked by bars and cafes offering everything from fresh oysters from the west of Ireland to fruit smoothies. 

Veggies in Portobello Market

Portobello Road is also known for its antiques. The interior decorator that I didn’t know existed inside me was drawn to ancient leather chairs, compasses from the 19th century, and intricate, glowing globes. These antique stores are the ones you can never find when actually looking for furniture. Record players, antique golf clubs, hand-sewn boxing gloves — there were antiques for every personality type. Men actually seemed to be enjoying sifting through the over-stuffed shops.

The famous Portobello Market runs along Portobello Road in Notting Hill

Looking for something I could actually fit into my luggage, I ducked into the Travel Bookshop. This bookstore is active on twitter, so when I’m sitting at my desk in New York, I’m always reading about what they are up to. The store itself lived up to my expectations, with a great mix of travel guides, memoirs, and travel-themed literature. Everything was organized by destination, making it possible to pick up a variety of books on a single subject. Across the street is another shop called Books for Cooks. It was closed on Monday when I was passing through, but I could tell just from the cookbooks in the window that I would have loved the opportunity to peruse the shelves.

Books for Cooks bookshop

After all this time on my feet it was time to take a seat in a local pub. A friend had recommended the Ground Floor Bar, right on Portobello Road. It struck me that mismatched antique tables were precisely that – mismatched antique tables and chairs. In New York a bar might try and achieve this look, but it almost always feels curated. In London, it all made sense, from these tables to slouchy couches to vases full of wildflowers. I went with a straightforward pint of lager, but the bar also had a wide selection of interesting, summery-sounding cocktails. 

More produce at the Portobello Market

More produce at the Portobello Market

This was the kind of wandering Monday where I was glad not to know the time. I ate when hungry, drank when thirsty, and spent time in the sunshine. Instead of trying to cross another London museum off my list, I just mingled through the market, got an idea for what was in season, and then kept an eye for dishes with those ingredients when I sat down for dinner.

Readers, what are your favorite European markets?

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Filed under Cuisine as Cultural Experience, On Assignment, Photo Essay, The Whole Shebang: International Travel

July 21, 2011

Crossing the Pond

Tomorrow, I’ll be on the red eye to London.

This city was the first place my Dad took me to Europe as a pre-double digit child. Where my plane landed when I studied at Oxford. Where my Grand Tour of Europe began. Yet what surprises me every time I touch down in Heathrow is how much there is to learn, how much I want to see in a short period of time. In the coming weeks I’ll be posting about my trip to London and Dublin, so check back for details on my summer trip.

Big Ben

For now, here are some of my favorite past posts about London and England.

Restaurant Review: Electric Brasserie – Twitter followers pointed me in the direction of Electric Brasserie, a buzzing restaurant on Portobello Road where I enjoyed oysters, a hearty steak sandwich, and more. 

Restaurant Report: Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons – My last trip to London included a sidetrip to Oxford, where I indulged in a very special lunch at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir. 

Springtime Snapshots: A spring trip to London brought me to Kew Gardens, where this proud peacock displayed his beauty all afternoon. 

Back to Where It All Began: Photos from my return trip to Oxford, a few years after spending the summer studying in this fascinating city. 

Photo Essay: Travel Inspiration: The lead photograph for this photo essay is of Westminster Abbey in London, set against a crisp autumn sky. 

Readers – have any favorites in London to share? Anything you think I should investigate on my trip?

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Filed under City Excursions, The Whole Shebang: International Travel

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