First snow of the season in Stockholm

This morning I woke to the first snowfall of the season in New York City.

Before it turns to slush, when there’s still just a few footsteps crushed into powder, snow in the city can be beautiful. A few years ago during a winter trip to Stockholm, I woke to six pristine inches of snow. It was the first I had seen that season, and stepping out of a friend’s apartment that morning, we spent the day exploring the white dusted city with soft snow underfoot.

But first, there was breakfast.

My local tour guides delivered exactly what I had hoped: a cafe away from the city center full of locals eating what locals usually eat. Stepping into the futuristic Xoko cafe — with its white walls, lights that change color, and intricate cakes — I was ready to surrender to whatever my host suggested. In the design-oriented cafe I was surprised at the first thing that was ordered: simple hunks of crisp sourdough baguette, chewy on the inside, served with soft butter.

As shopkeepers shoveled snow outdoors, everyone was happy to linger in the warm cafe. Next came simple, straightforward sandwiches that allowed ingredients to shine. Before this meal, I wouldn’t have thought that a ham and cheese sandwich would make for such a satisfying brunch, but the care that went into making this sandwich made all the difference. Next came what the cafe is really known for: artistic looking coffees and cakes. We had arrived early to snag a table, and now as the clock ticked towards 1pm, people were lined up outside, playfully tossing snowballs, waiting for a table.

A year later, I opened the newspaper one December Saturday to find an article on delicious desserts in Stockholm cafes. I wasn’t surprised to see Xoko on the list, even snagging the main photograph for this New York Times piece.

Readers, where have you memorably woken up to snow?

In the library of Glenmere Mansion on a sunny, Sunday morning, I sat down with the chef to talk travel, food, farms, and New York City. On assignment for Luxury Travel Magazine, I was looking forward not only to the fireplaces and country quiet of this 18-room Relais and Chateaux property in Chester, New York, but also sitting down for a meal in the sophisticated Supper Room.

“Part of being a chef is sharing my love of food beyond the plates. Diners shouldn’t be afraid to communicate more, to ask for recipes or tips. If there’s a dish someone really enjoyed, I’m more than happy to share some cooking strategies with them. If you’re curious about something, you should ask. Guests shouldn’t be afraid to speak up.”

This refreshing attitude fits right in at Glenmere, a luxurious mansion that beneath its beauty is an unpretentious and welcoming atmosphere. Stella is in charge of the hotel’s two restaurants — the Supper Room and the more casual Frog’s End Tavern — operating under one kitchen.

Breakfast bread basket at Glenmere

Located in the lower Hudson Valley, Glenmere is surrounded by fresh ingredients. “Farmers actually drop off produce right to the door,” Stella said. “It’s a chef’s dream.” Fall and winter menus feature local ingredients ranging from squash to apples to swiss chard to quince to mustard greens.

When he isn’t in the kitchen, Stella’s life is still immersed in food. We both share a love of the Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York City’s East Village, and a look of pure pleasure swept over his face when describing the dishes in Eleven Madison Park. We discussed living abroad, and food being at the core of memorable travel experiences. He described street food in Mexico City, communal ovens in Marrakesh where locals go to bake their own bread.

The elegant Supper Room at Glenmere Mansion

Just the mention of bread brought me back to the night before and three warm bites of a cheddar chive biscuit that started my meal at the Supper Room. Menus at Glenmere Mansion are not only about innovation and presentation, but first and foremost about taste. A delicate agnolotti of pumpkin with crispy pancetta, swiss chard, and sage brown butter showed Stella’s restraint to not allow the flavors of the dish to become muddled. This characteristic seemed reminiscent of the simplicity of Italian cooking, and fit right in with the restored Tuscan villa that is Glenmere.

On my second night, I dined at the second, more casual restaurant, the Frog’s End Tavern. Prior to taking a seat by the crackling fireplace, I asked the chef what dish he would order if he sat down in the tavern. Without a moment’s hesitation he replied, “the roasted chicken. Creamy mashed potatoes. Swiss chard. Such a perfect, comforting dish.”

That’s what I ate, slowly, savoring every morsel, that night at the Frog’s End Tavern.

Read my full coverage of Glenmere Mansion from Luxury Travel Magazine here. 

Sure, I loved the teeny oyster sandwiches at the Dutch — just like most other food bloggers in New York — and yes the lamb tacos at Empellon are delicious. But what makes a single bite stand above the rest over the course of an entire year? I’m the first to admit that atmosphere, company, service, and many other factors influence the pleasure of a meal. So admitting that, here, in no particular order, are my best 5 meals of 2011.

Kitchen 1540 The organic beet salad with pistachio brittle and crumbled Valdeon cheese was my favorite dish of the year. It may have helped that this dish converted me to the pleasure of beets, that I interviewed Chef Paul McCabe and learned how he makes the dish, but even discarding these details, this is one incredible salad. I would happily cross the country to San Diego just to start the day with Chef McCabe’s lemon ricotta pancakes, nosh on the beet salad by the pool for lunch, and see what he has up his seasonal sleeve for dinner.

Greek treats

Souvlakerie Tucked between fancier restaurant options in Costa Navarino is Souvlakerie, a casual spot with appealing outdoor seating serving traditional Greek souvlaki. During my October harvest trip to Greece I sampled many wonderful morsels — too many — but what stands tall as the best bite of my trip is grilled lamb chops with rosemary. I actually had many more than one bite of these medium rare chops, so perfect and simple when paired with grilled pita bread, a fresh Greek salad, and smoky eggplant salad.

Burger at the Spotted Pig

The Spotted Pig A memorable morsel sears itself so deep in your memory that you want it again. And soon. That’s what the burger at the Spotted Pig does. This might not be a surprising pick, but every time I sit down for April Bloomfield’s chargrilled burger with Roquefort and shoestring fries — on that perfectly grilled-on-all-sides bun — I’m in a happy place. Add in a couple pints of Old Speckled Hen and I’m in a very happy place. That’s what food in a gastropub should do. Whenever a burger craving strikes, this is the first burger in New York to pop into my head.

The Living Room The Maidstone hotel in East Hampton is home to the Living Room restaurant. Opening up the menu displays a commitment to the Slow Food movement, as diners can see and read details about the farms and dairies that supply the restaurant. Whether you believe in the food philosophy or not, the results are delicious. Grilled Berkshire pork tenderloin with sweet potato puree was one of the most divine moments of my dining year, and following just behind are the pork rillette ravioli and the Swedish Smorgasbord.

Making pasta by hand at Locanda Vini e Olii

Locanda Vini e Olii This year I explored Brooklyn while writing restaurant reviews for the new Clean Plates 2012 Brooklyn guide. One of my favorite meals came from Locanda Vini e Olii. While I expected the often-raved about grilled duck breast to be sensational — and it is — there were many other dishes that I loved as well. A simple plate of pasta has a nourishing, powerful quality to me, and the black pepper pici with roasted onions, grana padano, and tarragon is one of my favorite plates of pasta in the city.

What were my favorite meals last year? Take a look back at my 2010 round-up of favorite culinary moments.

Happy eating in 2012!

Photo Credit: Burger at Spotted Pig by AdamKuban on Flickr

Europe is a fascinating place to be over the holidays. Over the last several years I have spent much of December abroad before waiting for my plane to be de-iced to fly home just in time for Christmas. This year, I’m soaking up the seasonal spirit in New York City, but for this post thought I might take a look at some travels of Christmas past.

Last holiday season I spent in Dublin — a fantastic place to eat, drink, and be merry. This post introduces Fade Street, a place with great restaurants and bars to check out next time you’re in the Irish capital. 

In 2009 I took a trip to Megeve, France and wound up getting snowed in to a fantastic Relais and Chateaux property, Chalet Du Mont D’Arbois. This post details my snowed-in breakfast in Megeve. 

In 2008, I escaped the cold weather and spent some time in December in Spain and Morocco. Both turned out to be great presents for Christmas shopping, as I chronicled in this post called Magic Carpets and Bargaining Skills. 

In 2007, the lead up to Christmas was spent in Lisbon and London. This post details what an affordable escape Lisbon was at the time, and still is today.

Readers, are you headed to Europe this holiday season? What European destination has your favorite holiday celebrations?

As temperatures start to drop in New York City, everyone seems to be talking about upcoming travel plans: where to go to enjoy the snow, and where to go to escape it. This is also the time of year when people are scrambling to come up with creative gift ideas for loved ones. Why not plan a weekend away with a partner, family member, or friend? It will be money well spent if you get to enjoy some of the indulgence too.

One of my favorite ways to splurge is with a Relais & Chateaux weekend. This collection of luxury hotels delivers on two things that are important to me for a special getaway: strong character and delicious food. Here are some suggestions for special hotel weekend getaways — in the US and abroad — that I would love to receive as a holiday gift.

The Supper Room in Glenmere Mansion

1. Glenmere Mansion

Located just 50 miles from New York City in the lower Hudson Valley, this Tuscan-inspired villa provides a serene escape from the city. Check back for my full review and interview with the Supper Room’s chef in a couple weeks — I just stayed here in November. This Gilded Age mansion perched on a hill is the perfect example of what makes a Relais & Chateaux property so special. Beyond the luxurious soaking tubs and fireplaces, this hotel has a charismatic innkeeper, a great story of how it was restored, and two divine restaurants to choose between.

Sheen Falls Lodge and River Sheen

2. Sheen Falls Lodge

The countryside of Ireland might not have a reputation for gourmet fare, but Sheen Falls Lodge is one glowing exception. Located outside Kenmare in County Kerry, Sheen Falls Lodge is an ideal home base for exploring the nearby Ring of Kerry. While the scenery around the lodge is fantastic, you might be tempted to take a seat by the fireplace and order a hot drink instead. Not only does this hotel offer one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever eaten, but the evening dining experience with the rushing River Sheen in the background is unforgettable. Don’t miss the tour of the impressive wine cellar during a visit.

sunny breakfast room at Blantyre

3. Blantyre

Tucked into the Berkshires is a Tudor manor where I could happily become a regular guest. Between the Potting Shed Spa, wood-burning fireplaces, and shelves filled with carefully selected books, Blantyre is simply my kind of retreat. Come here if you like the sound of enjoying a cocktail before dinner in the parlor to the sound of live piano music. The food lives up to the atmosphere, with a surprise chef’s tasting menu that I still dream about.

shopping in Megeve, France

4. Chalet du Mont D’Arbois

Travelers looking to embrace the snowy season should consider a trip to Megeve, France. Not only will you have the opportunity to hit the slopes, but this Relais & Chateaux property is home to Le 1920, a restaurant with classic French service. Add a little romance into a snow getaway by dining at Le 1920 while snow falls just beyond the French doors. This should go without saying, but don’t leave without a serious sample of the cheese plate.

Malta

5. Xara Palace

For warm weather instead of snowy slopes, head to the island of Malta, just off the coast of Sicily. Here high above the island in a medieval walled city is Xara Palace. Exploring the quiet streets of Mdina and stumbling upon the sandstone building that houses Xara Palace is one the most distinct moments of my time spent in Malta. Take a seat in the dining room before sunset and watch the entire island of Malta change colors right before your eyes.

This property has all the characteristics of what makes the Relais and Chateaux collection one that I trust: history, a true sense of place, and an experience that can’t be mimicked elsewhere.

Readers, where are you going for the holidays this year?

It is a rare destination that allows us as travelers to find the sweet spot between the mindless beach vacation and the action-packed getaway that blows by too quickly, leaving us more tired than when we first left home. One destination that slides into this category for me is Costa Navarino in the southwest Peloponnese in Greece.

A new article, ‘Luxury: Greek Style in Costa Navarino‘ was just published from Luxury Travel Magazine. While I featured all the incredible amenities of the hotel, I also tried to highlight elements of that sweet spot that so many travelers crave — the place between too much and too little.

Here’s a little preview of the article:

One particularly sunny day during my visit to Costa Navarino, I sampled these [Costa Navarino Icons] products over a picnic under the shade of an olive tree. Cracking open a bottle of cold white wine, nibbling on local cheeses and traditional spinach pie, spanakopita, I savored one of life’s greatest luxuries: time. For all there is to do and see and learn in Costa Navarino, this is also a destination that delivers the essence of the Greek way of life, one filled with good company, laughter, and plates and glasses that are always more than half full. 

Check out the full article to find out how Costa Navarino strikes the right balance.

For me, one highlight of this trip was a visit to the nearby Kalamata market. Kalamata is the 2nd largest city in the Peloponnese and one Monday morning I arrived to explore what raw ingredients were responsible for the delicious cuisine I had been devouring during my visit. What I found was fresh and fragrant produce that made me wish I was preparing a meal that very evening. Here are some snapshots from my morning of wandering through the Kalamata market.

Beautiful, bright carrots full of lovely lumps.

A bundle of wild greens, dill, and squash blossoms — the ingredients of a traditional soup.

The market was full of piles of wild greens.

Local lady selling produce.

Zucchini with delicious flowers still attached.

I wanted to bring home samples of everything.

A day at the market in Kalamata.

Readers — what are some of your favorite European markets?

After participating in the hand-picking of olives in Costa Navarino, it was now time to witness the next step of the process. As the workers moved their green netting to the next tree to start the picking process all over again, I jumped into the truck for a short ride to the olive mill. The roads of Messinia wound through more olive groves, over streams, and past tall cypress trees while climbing hills. When we arrived at the mill, there was no time for small talk: the faster the process begins, the better the olive oil.

The truck backed up into the mouth of the mill. One by one, bags of electric green olives were poured down into a metal bin and scooped up by a conveyor belt. With the excitement of a child I followed the olives and watched as they went through the process of being pressed, churned, and after releasing an incredible aroma, the first drops of olive oil emerged. I couldn’t get over how scientific the whole process was — temperature controlled by a serious looking set of gadgets that I didn’t dare go near.

Aside from the excitement of watching our day’s work turned into the first batch of olive oil of the season, this trip to the mill was special for another reason. Not only did we have the chance to witness how olive oil is made, but we got to meet the family responsible for making it. A cheerful, blonde little girl ran around my feet as I tried to capture each moment of the process. Just off the main equipment room was a kitchen where the girl’s blonde and beautiful mother was preparing a snack. She had a fire crackling in a deep stone fireplace and was getting ready to toast fresh bread right on the fire.

Before it was time to sample the olive oil, I first had a couple other things to try. During a handful of days in Greece, I sampled the traditional Greek dish of spanakopita — a savory phyllo pie stuffed with spinach and wild greens — many times, but none compared to what came out of this woman’s kitchen. After taking my first delicious bite, I looked up at her standing at the sink, with the incredible Messinian countryside spread outside her window. On this day I was glad to have skipped breakfast as I tucked into a second golden piece.

Soon it was time for the olive oil tasting. First I spooned some onto a toasted slice of thick cut bread, taking my time to slowly chew and taste. Next olive oil tasting jars appeared. After some olive oil was poured in the jar and the lid placed on top, I warmed the olive oil in the palm of my hand before inhaling its fragrance and putting it to my lips for a taste. It was hard to believe that just hours before this had been olives on a tree, perfectly ripe and waiting to be picked by hand.

The whole experience gave me a new appreciation for humble olive oil. There are many hands involved in the process and a great deal of time and care is spent ensuring its quality. This simple product is partly responsible for the legendary healthy nature of the Greeks, and they use it liberally in their cooking.

Once the last piece of bread was devoured and the last pieces of spanakopita wrapped in tin foil to take home, it was time to leave the mill. Driving back to Costa Navarino I saw many farmers attending to their own olive trees, just as their ancestors have done for centuries.

‘That’s why we prune the trees so severely, to encourage more fruit.’

It was a sunny October day in the southwest Peloponnese and the first day of the local harvest. I had traveled here to participate in one of Greece’s most traditional annual rituals: the hand-picking of olives. In Costa Navarino alone there are 6,000 olive trees that need to be picked by hand, and I was about to witness how it was done.

There are no crazy tree-shaking machines here – just a few strong men with a rake-like tool and a big green net for catching the olives before they hit the ground. One man grabbed hold of the gnarled trunk, climbing towards the top, pruning off entire branches. The workers on the ground snatched these up off the ground, and started whacking them to release olives onto the net below. Each swing sent hard olives flying in and all directions, and was accompanied by an unmistakable ‘thwack’ sound.

‘Want to give it a try?’ I was handed a long rake and pointed to a section of the tree. It was filled with fruit, yet as I combed through the leaves I couldn’t seem to make it rain olives. The experienced worker demonstrated the motion again, suggesting I put a little more strength behind each pull. After just five minutes the muscles in my shoulder started to tighten – long before the limb was free of all its fruit.

As I tried to make a dent in my assigned branch, I listened to stories about the history of harvesting olives. Traditionally during the weeks of harvest, a cloth bassinet was constructed and hung between branches of an olive tree. While the rest of the family picked olives at their peak moment, the baby remained safely suspended in the shade of the tree.

Right as I was getting the hang of the rake tool, it was time for the next step in the process.

The net surrounding the tree – that keeps the olives from touching the ground, maintaining their purity – is picked up to gather all the olives in one area. Workers then surrounded the mound of fruit, rifling through and tossing bad olives aside. When only bright green ones remained, a burlap sack was filled to the brim, and effortlessly thrown over a shoulder to be carried to the truck.

I learned that the best olive oil is made quickly after picking, so while the workers set up their net on the next tree to start the process all over again, I jumped into the truck with a pickup full of burlap sacks of olives.

It was time to go to the mill.

*Next week, the story of the olive harvest in Greece continues at the mill.

We had just finished an interview and tour of Locanda Vini e Olii, his Italian restaurant (along with co-owners Rocco Spagnardi and Michael Schall) in the Clinton Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn. From the moment I first walked through the historic doors, I was compelled to know more about the story and people behind this space. There are countless restaurants serving Italian food in New York, but few sear your memory so deeply that you have to return for more.

Clues of the restaurant’s former life as a century-old pharmacy give the space some of its undeniable charm. Shelves that were once lined with medicines are now stocked with wine glasses and country-inspired dishes. Arriving on a sunny Saturday afternoon, I took a seat at the bar with Michele for a chat about food, travel, and tips on how to improve cooking at home. 

Chef Michele Baldacci photo by Catherine de Zagon

Michele grew up in the kind of family that made every meal fresh. Talking about his childhood in Florence he said, ‘We planned our meals in advance, nothing was ever frozen, we connected over food’. It should come as no surprise that after some impressive experience — cooking at La Tenda Rossa, a two-star Michelin restaurant and Buca Lapi, one of Florence’s most beloved restaurants — Michele would become part of a team in New York seeking to connect with customers and help expand their culinary horizons. 

It is clear that everyone here loves food. Co-owner Michael Schall works the floor with ease and familiarity, helping customers to break down Italian-heavy language and references on the menu. On my first visit he described dishes with affection, helping me narrow my choices and create a well-balanced meal. This attention to detail encouraged me to make a mental note to return for one of the restaurant’s wine dinners, pairing seasonal ingredients — like mushrooms at a recent autumn wine dinner — with interesting Italian wines.

Country-inspired dishes at Locanda Vini e Olii

With a modest smile, Michele hesitated when I asked him to narrow down his cooking skills to one specialty. ‘Braising meats’ he finally answered. ‘We have a different braised meat almost every day. For the last three days I’ve had three different braised dishes. One of my favorites right now is the braised short ribs, with red wine, bay leaves, and red onion.’

What is striking to me about this restaurant — beyond a mastery of preparing meats — is an energy for pushing the boundaries. ‘I don’t want to serve the obvious dishes’ Michele said. This was apparent later when I stepped into the kitchen to see a pot of ribollita (a simple Tuscan soup of bread and vegetables) gently bubbling away on the stove.

There are challenges, however, in creating a menu that strays from what people expect. Michele said an ingredient like tripe — the lining of the stomach– served here topped with grana padano cheese is one of his most under-appreciated dishes. Yet with the help of warm service and a knowledgeable and curious customer base, these dishes are becoming easier to serve. People want to expand their horizons, and Michele wants to serve dishes that are rooted in his tradition, not watered down or trendy.

Not only do this chef and I share a passion for Italian food, but we both love to let our stomachs spark travel. Recent culinary adventures for Michele include traveling to Alba in the Piedmont region of Italy for its annual truffle festival and tasting the famous sachertorte in its native Austria.

Before heading into the kitchen to witness fresh pasta being made, we talked about tips for cooking at home. The chef warned against spoiling a dish with too many ingredients, and cautioned me against being overly dependent on broth when braising meats. ‘Then everything winds up tasting like broth’, he said. Instead allow the flavor to come from the meat and from the ingredients you choose, and if liquid is needed — use water instead of broth. 

Michele isn’t finished pushing the boundaries at Locanda Vini e Olii. Next he’s planning on using more game, beyond wild boar, on his menu. He wants to use more birds like squab and partridge. During our conversation, it was clear that this chef is constantly challenging himself to share Tuscan traditions with his customers in new ways. 

From the Tuscan bread made in-house to the fresh pasta, everything here is made just how it is in Italy: with love. Leaving the chef to prepare for Saturday night service, I wished I had a reservation for that very night. Next time I sit down at one of the brown-paper covered tables, I think I’ll take Michele’s advice and eat more tripe.

Expect more posts to come (today we harvested olives, pressed them, and tasted the fresh olive oil) but for now, here is a photograph of a picnic in the shade of olive trees.

Afternoon picnic in Costa Navarino

Those picnic baskets are filled with delicious Greek goodies.