The Great American Travel Dream

On any Grand Tour, something’s gota give.

For me – places I missed include Krakow, Poland (one I particularly regret), Ljubljana, Slovenia (we were on a train traveling through Slovenia to Croatia, but didn’t have the time to stop) and I would have loved to see Mostar, in Bosnia.

Old Town, Bratislava, Slovak Republic

The other side of this coin, is that sometimes, you get off the train not having any idea where you are or why you’re even getting off the train, and you’re pleasantly surprised. For me, this was Bratislava.

The capital of the Slovak Republic was so charming, so cozy — that I could’ve stayed for weeks. After a particularly disappointing hostel (or disappointing 2 hostels to be more specific) in Budapest, we were ready for some relaxation. Whatever guidebook I was carrying at the time had a lovely little description of the city, and that was enough to make me stop.

After all, one of the most fun aspects of a Grand Tour of Europe is visiting places you would never plan a full vacation to see. I’ve already been back to Paris, London, and Venice since my Grand Tour of 2007 – but I’m not sure if I’ll ever get back to Bratislava. That made walking its cobbled streets all the more exciting.

To start we found the most delightful guesthouse. It was the beginning of April, not yet the tourist season, and just off the main square (Hlavné námestie) was Pension Gremium. The friendly owner let us choose between a few rooms, and we choose a sunny room in the front of the building. A quaint breakfast room, colossal bed with fluffy pillows, and a private bath completed this hotel-indulgence.

Bratislava by night.

Despite these treats to a weary backpacker, we left our little sanctuary behind for a stroll through the city and dinner. The Old Town is a winding maze of quiet, cobbled streets. The architecture is a blend of many influences.. it’s not quite German, not quite Hungarian. With a recommendation from our host, we sat down to dinner in a cozy restaurant, filled with dark wood and heavenly scents from the kitchen.

Like any European city, it looked even better at night. Fountains and the Old Town Hall were lit up brilliantly, and tulips had just sprouted signifying spring. Wandering the streets, the markets, stopping for a coffee — I fell in love with Europe again. Sometimes being on the road can be trying — and sometimes, you get off the train somewhere that reminds you why its all worth it.

Besides the outdoor cafes, Old Town, gourmet breakfast, and tulips — I also remember the interesting sculpture throughout the city.

Memorable sculpture in Bratislava.

It was clear that in Bratislava, they have a sense of humor when it comes to public art.