February 9, 2010

Off The Beaten Path – Roundstone, Ireland

When it comes to travel in Ireland, a lot of it is off the beaten path.

After all, that is part of the charm of Ireland – the windy country roads, the small village pubs, the quaint bed and breakfasts. Ireland is a country to explore independently – with a rental car, bicycle, or even on foot. If you’ve been thinking of joining a tour group of Ireland, cancel your reservation, don’t even think about it. The best moments in Ireland are where you find yourself somewhere remarkably beautiful – and away from the crowds.

Since I moved to Ireland in 2008, I’ve gotten a chance to explore a good amount of the country. I promise one of these days to get around to writing a top 10 list of off the beaten path getaways in Ireland – but for tonight – I’ll start with just one. Many visitors to Ireland stop in Galway, the large city of the west coast. But just outside of the city there is the most fantastic wild landscapes that many travelers don’t get to see.

Of course, Galway is worth a visit. But especially as part of a larger tour of the rest of County Galway. One of the gem’s of the west is a tiny village called Roundstone. I first visited in the springtime, and was struck speechless by the white sandy beaches, aquamarine waters, and charming fishing harbor. After a spectacular dinner at Vaughan’s and a cozy night in Eldons Hotel – I wondered if I’d ever want to return to the city.

I couldn’t decide at the time what was more rewarding – the drive through Connemara to reach Roundstone, or the village itself. This tiny town in the West of Ireland can be a popular spot to visit during the short summer months, but visit any other time of year and you’ll have the entire town to yourself. 

February 4, 2010

A Sunny Saturday in Dublin

It is rare to wake up in Dublin on a Saturday with sunlight streaming through the windows.

On such an occasion, there’s no better way to spend a sunny afternoon than somewhere along the coast. When my friends James and Michelle offered to be my tour guides for the day and bring me down to an area along the coast I’ve never been – I couldn’t resist.

An hour later we were cruising south outside of the city center. I had forgotten my sunglasses – something I rarely think about leaving the house because I never need them. We pulled off the motorway and into Bray, a former summer holiday destination that has retained some of its summer charm over the years.

We parked the car near the sea and a quick ice cream cone later began the walk south to the next village along the coast, Greystones. From the start of the path it was possible to look back towards Dublin city, where the coast was bathed in light. The water was a bit choppy, but a few minutes later I’d be glad for the breeze coming off the sea.

The path followed the craggy coast and was dotted with wildflowers and old stone fences. The DART train line follows the coast as well and every so often a train charged out of tunnels in the rock to continue its journey along the coast. After our hour and a half walk, we too would board the DART back to where we started in Bray.

After maneuvering over puddles and mud, watching rain water find its way to the sea, and following the winding path around many turns in the coast – Greystones appeared in the near distance. Turning around the curve in the coast – the sunlight struck our faces. This may not be unusual for some parts of the world – but for a cold January day in Dublin – it felt damn good.

The adorable village of Greystones was even more of a reward for our walk. We had all built up quite an appetite – and the natural food cafe ‘The Happy Pear’ was the perfect solution. With perfect afternoon options like a bowl of soup, salad, or smoothie – we were all quickly satisfied before hopping aboard the DART for the quick ride back to Bray.

What a great little Saturday.

February 1, 2010

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Lisbon, Portugal

I’m not one of those bloggers that posts every day at 7.30am, or every Monday, or even on a weekly schedule. I do blog when something / some place / some restaurant / some festival inspires me – and I think it is worth sharing on this site that is devoted to tips, anecdotes, and photographs about travel.

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January 29, 2010

Get on the Local Schedule

While some travelers have all the luck and seem to stumble upon buzzing restaurants or packed festivals without doing a bit of research – the rest of us can benefit from a little planning ahead.

I was too busy taking pictures of quaint Frascati to notice that all the locals were in their seats for lunch.

Getting on the local schedule almost always guarantees finding the type of atmosphere that will bring a destination to life. Before you plan your next trip to any European city – do some research on local habits. What types of meals do they eat? (Small breakfast? Lunch as biggest meal of the day? Very late dinner?) What time are meals served? Are shops closed for siesta?

Over the last years I’ve found this out the hard way. Italy is a great example of the benefits of being on the local schedule. One afternoon, I was enjoying the sunny streets of a quaint town outside Rome called Frascati. We probably arrived on the train from Rome around noon, and thought we would wander around for a while before sitting down to lunch.

If I’d had a closer look, I probably would have noticed that right around 12, the tables were starting to fill with local people sitting down for their afternoon meal. At 2pm when we were ready to sit down for lunch, many doors had ‘closed’ signs hanging in the windows, and tables were finishing up espresso, not digging into pasta.

Fountain in the main piazza, Frascati.

After about the 5th or 6th restaurant we were turned away from, we started to lose hope. Bakeries were closed too – our plan B of just grabbing some bread or pastries to hold us over until dinner was failing miserably. 

Luckily, we turned a corner to see one last bright awning. At this point the clock was approaching 2:30, and I realized that we were no longer in the cosmopolitan city of Rome where we could always find something to eat. On first glance – there was no closed sign on the door, and with the ring of a bell, we walked inside.

It was exactly the restaurant I’d been hoping to find: small wooden tables, decorated with family heirlooms, and a glimpse into the kitchen in the back. There were only two tables that were occupied – one with a couple who were finishing up their main courses, and the table in the corner where the family who owned the restaurant were sitting down to their own meal.

Just as the chef was about to tell me they were closed, I smiled. Next I practiced my limited Italian to say, ‘Are you open, please?’ He directed us to a table nearby, and looking at the table next to us, I pointed at the dish the gentleman was having. Pleased with our quick order, the chef went back into the kitchen to whip up our lunch.

His three-year old daughter Isabella was shy when we first arrived, but after a few minutes she was running around the restaurant, playing with my scarf, even delivering bread. What came to the table next was one of the best meals I had during my entire few months in Italy. A handmade twisted pasta had the perfect rough texture to pick up a creamy, cheesy, bubbly sauce. Pan seared pancetta, onions, tomatoes, and other garden vegetables kept the dish light. 

1 Euro Coffee, Brilliant.

It could have been my extreme hunger at this point – but the red house wine and this plate of pasta is one of my most distinct memories of my time in Italy. As it turns out, the couple sitting next to us spoke some English, and served as translators with the chef and his family. We sat almost until the restaurant was opening again for dinner, lingering over our wine, followed by strong coffee. 

This was the Italy I had traveled to find – focused on family, good food, good company. While this story has a happy ending – I definitely learned my lesson about getting on the local schedule. When I’m in Italy, I make sure I’ve got my seat for lunch by 1pm. I don’t want to miss out on any of the atmosphere by being late.

January 24, 2010

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly of Self Catering

Looking for ways to keep the cost of your travels down?

Cooking dinner at an apartment in the heart of Venice.

Self-catering apartments will always be cheaper than hotels – but not all rentals are created equal. Before you book a self-catering option, consider the following information about the good, the bad, and the ugly sides of self catering.

At its best, self catering provides more space, the added convenience of a kitchen, and my favorite element – a residential location. Nothing makes you feel like more of a local than stepping out the front door of an apartment right into a part of town you never would have otherwise visited. Travelers looking to get beneath the surface of a destination will certainly benefit from the pros of apartment rentals. If you’ve been to Paris a few times before, for example, renting an apartment is sure to give you a new perspective on the City of Light.

At its worst, you find yourself lugging bags up six flights of stairs to find that the key doesn’t work in the door, or the water hasn’t been turned on, or there’s a kitchen – but no plates or items to cook with. There is one way to avoid this full stop – and that is by booking only with a reputable website, and preferably one that has space for comments of previous renters. 

But what about places that are advertised on Craigslist, or directly by the owner? I must admit, my experiences have all been positive. I’ve never gotten to an apartment to find that there is not one single towel to be found anywhere, or entered into a room with a bare mattress and had to make the bed myself (although I know people who have encountered that specific challenge.)

Rialto Fish Market, Venice.

These obstacles may leave you wishing for a reception to call that will take care of your problem with a promptness only experienced in great hotels. And while sometimes you don’t know what you’re getting yourself into – self catering is always an adventure, and promises the opportunity to learn a bit more about culture than could be found in a hotel room.

Sometimes, the results are worth the risk. My best memories of self-catering are as follows:

1. Berlin, Germany. The owner of my apartment rental was a friendly film editor who shared stories of life during the Berlin Wall, and gave firsthand anecdotes of the day the Wall came down. He brought us to see a jazz show, gave us advice on restaurants, and simply shared his love of the city.

2. Venice, Italy. Anyone who enjoys cooking must consider self-catering options in Italy. A travel dream of mine came true when I strolled into the Rialto Fish Market early each morning to select something from the daily catch. Affordable bakeries and grocery stores complemented my purchases, and each evening, I whipped up my own Italian specialties.

Never have time to cook at home? Book a vacation rental with a gourmet kitchen and start your day at the market!

A healthy bit of hesitancy will ensure you have a good experience with self catering. Never book a vacation rental if you haven’t seen photographs. Never hand over the entire price of your visit – even if a discount is offered by paying in full. Don’t hesitate to ask questions about location, amenities, and price. And lastly, don’t be shy about discovering a new area of town. 

What are your favorite things about self-catering? Have a nightmare story about vacation rentals? Share your advice with fellow travelers below.

January 20, 2010

Go Ahead, Keep Your Money

You work hard for it, so why put more money than necessary into travel?

Statue in Main Square, Antwerp, Belgium

Sometimes, the answer is because it’s easy. Searching a little harder for that cheap flight just isn’t worth the $20. Or maybe you want to stay in the dead-center of town and are willing to pay for it. 

While these situations will always arise, and I’m a firm believer that there’s always a reason to splurge, you can also keep some cash in your pocket by following a few tips. When you reach your destination – go ahead and spend on a special souvenir or a gourmet meal with the money your savvy has saved you.

Here are my top tips for keeping your money during travel planning:

1. What country are you logged in as? When Americans log on to a European, Asian, South American, etc website from an American IP address, we are often directed to the American site. It is possible at the top of the screen (most of the time) to select a different country. For example, recently I was looking up flights on Iberia Airlines. I logged in as I was in Spain, or a Spanish citizen (with options still in English) and felt as if I was getting different fares.

Cathedral in Siena

2. Always research round trips. Exploring a larger region is part of what makes a big trip exciting – whether it is finally getting to Eastern Europe or exploring the east coast of South America. I’ve found especially in Europe, that for some reason, round trip fares (on planes, trains, boats, etc..) are often SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than booking a one-way. Countless times in Italy I booked a round trip fare, never to return to Siena, simply because the fare was cheaper. Don’t lose out on cash because you think a one-way ticket is the only way to go.

3. Call and Ask. It’s a recession people – and often if you call a hotel and ask for their best possible price during a given period, they might just be able to offer you something to make sure you book. Now, this tactic DOES entail picking up the phone and talking to a real human (which many of us seem averse to doing these days) but with the invention of Skype and cheap international phone calls, anything is possible.

4. Give your Question a Google. There are many travel professionals out there (ahem..) that are sharing what they’ve learned from years of travel. Want to know where to dine in Munich? I’ve covered that. Need a cheap and cheerful pensione in Florence? You’ll find that here too. The web is full of inside tips if you take a few minutes to search for them.

Dolmen, West of Ireland. **There have been many last minute deals to Ireland. Pay less, see this!**

5. Don’t Always Book Ahead. Some websites offer discounts ‘only when purchased from home’ to American travelers for things like train or bus tickets. I’ve discovered that this is often a scam, a way to convince you that you’re earning a great deal and need to cough up a lump sum in advance before your trip. If you know you will be on the trains a lot and are covering significant distances, then alright, go for it. But if you are planning on seeing a few places in Italy, pay the individual fares, and you’ll likely come out ahead. There’s also a lot to be said for last minute deals these days, so don’t hand over your money too quickly.

Also – do your research on package deals. All of a sudden $2,000 to hike the Inca Trail might seem a bit ridiculous when you do a bit more research on the individual cost of things.

Go ahead and keep your money – you may just wind up traveling more.

Any tips to share with your fellow travelers? Share your thoughts on getting the best deals when planning your adventures below.

January 15, 2010

Hometown History: Rutt’s Hut

The recession has reminded me that old favorites never go out of style.

Everyone loves to sit down for a gourmet meal – but every once in a while, there’s nothing better than an American classic: the hot dog. If you’re in New Jersey – there’s only one place to go – one institution that has earned the praise of food critics nationwide – Rutt’s Hut.

A recent Friday night brought me to this classic roadside restaurant, where I was told stories of my mother being brought to the hot dog stand out back as a child. My grandfather, a first-generation Italian-American, worked in a factory nearby – and must have discovered Rutt’s Hut on his lunch hour. 

He introduced my mother to ‘rippers’ (hot dogs that got their name from ‘ripping’ while cooked) as a childhood treat. Growing up – my mom started heading to Rutt’s Hut with friends for hot dogs, fries, and onion rings. When you first walk in the door, there is a long bar with the menu listed overhead. My grandfather told my mother that the menu hasn’t changed since the 50’s, and that only the prices have been changed over the years.

There’s a dining room in the back, and one of the most charming elements of the restaurant awaits. Waitresses are notoriously unhappy at Rutt’s Hut, and don’t believe in pleasantries. When they drop a pile of hot dogs on your table, you’ll realize they aren’t being rude, it’s all apart of the quirky charm.

Don’t expect to make an evening out of it – it literally takes minutes to sit down, order, have your meal delivered, and pay. Rutt’s Hut accepts cash only, so leave your credit cards at home and head out for a recession-busting meal.

January 9, 2010

Photo Essay: Travel Inspiration

Is one of your New Year’s resolutions to start traveling more?

Maybe this posting of photographs from across Europe will inspire you to book the trip of a lifetime.

Westminster Abbey, London, on a blue-sky autumn day.

 

Looking for somewhere a bit more exotic?

Church in central square, Hvar, Croatia, during sunset.

 

Have you been thinking about taking an adventurous vacation? Hike the five villages of Cinque Terre in Liguria, Italy.

View approaching Vernazza, during a hike from Monterosso.

 

Or maybe a cultural city break will entice you to book the flight?

View down on the river in Budapest

 

Or maybe rent an apartment and spend a week cooking with local, fresh ingredients?

Market in Vienna, Austria

 

Check back for more photo travel inspirations, and make 2010 the year you visit somewhere you’ve always dreamed of going.

January 6, 2010

Things Europeans Do Right.

As Americans, we never want to admit that another part of the world might just do something better than us.

Scottish Highlands

After living abroad for a couple years, I’ve come to the conclusion that Europeans have their heads on straight about quite a few things. We could all use a bit more of ‘European Style’ in the following categories:

1. Vacation Time: Do Europeans get vacation time because they love to travel, or do they love to travel because they have more vacation time? Whichever it is, they explore the world, multiple times per year. Europeans know the pleasure of planning a trip, traveling with family and friends, and the importance of living, not just working. Sure, they have endless choices for culture, cuisine, and history on their doorstep – but we aren’t doing too badly in our diverse USA either.

2. Talking Quietly: Ok, not all Europeans talk quietly (think loud tables of Spanish or Italian families at a crowded restaurant) but they do know when to talk quietly. I couldn’t possibly quantify the number of times I’ve been in a quiet place (think church, important historical monument, museum..) where I heard a loud, American accent from across the room. This habit of ours isn’t earning us the best reputation.

3. Outdoor Space: We Americans do pretty good with parks. Our parks are big, well-maintained, and full of flowers. But we don’t have much planned outdoor living space in our cities. We still think of sidewalk cafes as ‘quaint’ instead of a normal component of city planning. Benches are restricted to parks, and often we pay a premium just to have any access to the great outdoors.

Outdoor Space in the center of London

4. Affordable Air Travel: Why haven’t budget airlines caught on in America? Now I’ve had some bad experiences with RyanAir, but I’ve also traveled from Croatia to Ireland for less than 10 euros, so I’m not complaining. Perhaps Americans would travel more if we had more access to affordable airfare.

5. Simply, Relaxing: Europeans know how to relax. They go out for long dinners (no one is rushing them up from the table). They sit down for a coffee and aren’t expected to vacate the moment the last drop is finished. They browse in bookstores, they go for walks after a big meal, they use their cars only when they have to. Sometimes we Americans are so goal and task oriented that we forget about relaxing.

So the next time it’s a beautiful spring morning, instead of picking up your dry cleaning and stopping at the pharmacy – sit down with the newspaper and a cup of coffee and give yourself a couple hours to pretend as if you’re away, perhaps at a European sidewalk cafe, where no one is in a rush to get anywhere.

January 4, 2010

Most Memorable Meals in Europe

I’ve spent the last 2 1/2 years eating my way through Europe.

From fish and chips to gourmet meals, currywurst from a street cart in Berlin to fine dining with white linen – I’ve eaten it all. It’s part of my theory of exploring a new place – to explore its flavors, its hospitality, its creativity with cuisine.

As promised from my last post, here’s my top 5 most memorable meals of the last 2 1/2 years. If you have any suggestions about places I must try in the future, leave your comments below.

1. Vinaiolo. Munich, Germany: Sometimes, German food can get a little heavy. I like dumplings, and weinerschnitzel just as much as the next girl, but one snowy Sunday in Munich, I got a recommendation to check out the Italian restaurant Vinaiolo. The snow had turned to heavy rain as we approached the warm, welcoming door of the restaurant. We were greeted in Italian, German, and English as our coats were whisked away into a back closet. 

A casual ambiance was achieved with the glass case full of wine bottles and other Italian trinkets, but the white-linen and well-dressed servers kept the restaurant upscale. With the rain encouraging us to get comfortable, we opted for a five-course tasting menu that blew me away. Traditional Italian ingredients were reinvented in fresh ways, each dish looked beautiful on the plate, and from my table I could glance into the kitchen to see Marco whipping up his creations. Every once in a while a night out to eat becomes a memorable dining experience – every touch at Vinaiolo was engrained in my memory as authentic, personal, and nourishing.

2. Dax. Dublin, Ireland: Some readers may not believe how great the dining is in Dublin. From Peploe’s to the Winding Stair to Juniors to Aqua in Howth – there are plenty of restaurants that are tempting options. For me, the most tempting is a French restaurant called Dax.

Maybe it was the particularly low Wednesday I was having, or the spur-of-the-moment reservation I made at a restaurant I’d been dying to try – but everything about Dax impressed. The knowledgeable waiters made suggestions without being pushy. When it came to the wine, the waiter recommended a Rioja riserva at a more affordable rate than the bottle we had originally selected – promising it to be delicious. He was right about that.. as well as the seared scallops, duck breast with blood orange sauce, and chocolate souffle. To this day, when I’m having a bad day my restaurant dreams turn to Dax..

3. La Zucca. Venice, Italy: I know I’ve written about La Zucca before – but it needs to be mentioned again for this ‘Best Meals’ list. My first trip to Venice I walked by La Zucca for many nights, never making a reservation, or even sitting down for dessert because I was renting an apartment and each morning bought my fish fresh from the Rialto Fish Market.

But this past trip, I knew I wanted a table outside next to the canal at La Zucca. A symbol for Italy at its best – the dishes were simple, prepared with fresh ingredients, and unfussy. My appetizer was the simplest plate of linguini with a pomodoro sauce, a dollop of fresh ricotta cheese, and a sprinkling of herby pesto. It is possible the atmosphere made the dish taste just a little bit better, but it still was simplicity at its finest.

4. La Leyerda. Hotel Becquer, Sevilla, Spain: After a long drive fromthe coast of Andalucia to Sevilla, the last thing we wanted to do was look for a restaurant. Asking a local for a recommendation, we were pointed towards the tapas bar and coffee shop of Hotel Becquer. At first unremarkable from all the other nearby restaurants, we then noticed that La Leyerda was packed with local families lingering over a long lunch.

There was one table left and we sat down to enjoy one of the most memorable lunches of my life. Far beyond typical tapas of ham or meatballs, this tapas bar offered balanced dishes with delicate sauces and a wide variety of fish. We didn’t stay for dessert – but I regretted it immediately when I walked out and saw other guests digging into an ice cream sundae.

5. Le 1920. Chalet Mont du Arbois, Megeve, France: Read my last post for details on the spectacular meal I had at Le 1920, including unique tableside service, the perfect filet mignon, and my first experience with sea urchin.